Kruja
For the Albanians, the fortress of Kruja is a national treasure. It was Skanderberg's base in his fight against the Ottomans, which is why there is also a museum here dedicated to him. However, you won't find any historical artefacts here. It is more like a heroic monument, created by the communist regime and illustrates the Albanian history.
The Folklore Museum is much more interesting, with original artefacts from the 19th century that creates an image of the life of the former Albanian aristocracy.
But also apart from the museum context, Kruja is always worth a visit! The town seems glued to the mountain as you wind your way up from the plain, and the spectacular view from the castle complex - perched on a rock, whose steep, almost impregnable walls still show why this place was so important for Skanderberg's victorious campaign - extends over the wide plain to the sea on clear days.
Beside the museums in the central part of the castle, the castle complex also includes the so-called upper castle, with the old clock tower and restaurants and B&Bs in beautiful old Ottoman-style houses with charming seating areas on historic ground. My tip for food and accommodation here is Rooms Merlika, whose warm-hearted owner speaks excellent English and whose historic furniture turns back time while eating and sleeping.
In the so-called lower castle, you can see an old Turkish hammam, a Byzantine chapel and a dervish monastery but there are also about 20 Ottoman-era houses that are still inhabited today. Tightly packed along the narrow, cobblestone pathes, always in danger of being damaged in every major storm – if they have not been bought by wealthy investors and converted into fancy B&Bs and hostels.
My friends Xeni and Xhuma live in one of them. Xeni is more of a caretaker at the castle, but secretly a passionate tour guide who will be happy to introduce you to the history and sights of his hometown.
The old bazaar is also worth a visit! Apart from the rather unnecessary tourist trinkets made in China, many historical garments, other antique objects and militaria from the world wars and the communist regime are sold here. It also offers a wide selection of beautifully crafted utensils made of olive wood and hand-woven carpets based on traditional designs.
Another unique place is Tekke Sari Saltik – a Bektashi sanctuary – and one of seven presumed graves of Sari Taltik, a companion of Haci Bektash, who is said to have performed miracles in Kruja.
Regardless of whether he is actually buried here or not, the mysterious spring grotto exudes a mystical calm that always makes me feel very quiet and reverent.
But maybe it's also because of the steep mountain road, which winds higher and higher up the mountain, sometimes with terrifying bends but always with breathtaking views of untouched nature.
