Advisor
Also known as the city of a thousand windows, Berat – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008 – is one of the most beautiful cities in Albania, with its countless well-preserved Ottoman houses in the old town quarters and its fortress, which, like Kruja, is still inhabited.
Just as the Danube divides Buda and Pest, the Osum does the same here with Gorica and Mangalam.
Gorica, situated on the eastern bank at the foot of Gorica Mountain, was formerly inhabited mainly by Greeks and Aromanians – a Romance-speaking Christian tribe belonging to the Walachians – and is more easily accessible than the Mangalam district, which was home to the Muslim population and nestles on the hillside below the fortified Kalaja on the western side of the river.
The houses stand close together in narrow lanes, which are connected by steps. They vary in size and are considerably less splendid and defensible than the Ottoman stone houses in Girokaster, because Berat was rather poor compared to other trading cities and the population here consisted mainly of craftsmen and merchants.
The medieval castle complex is famous for its frescoed churches, several of which were painted by Nikolla Onufri (16th/17th century) – the son of the Albanian icon painter Onufri Argitis, who is considered the most important artist in South-East Europe in this genre. A museum is dedicated to both of them on the castle hill. From the battlements, there are impressive views far into the countryside, and various restaurants and cafés between the churches and ruins of times long past provide for the physical well-being.
Of course, the bazaar stalls with souvenirs, carpets, embroidery and other ‘homemade’ items are not to be missed. But here too, a lot of it is made in China and only a little is genuine Albanian craftsmanship.
Even though Berat is easy to explore in a day trip, I recommend spending the night there. The city lights are simply enchanting and you can combine a visit to the Osum Gorge, one of the most spectacular natural attractions in Albania, with it the next day.
My accommodation tips: Residenca Desaret, a villa within walking distance of the old town with spacious rooms, beautiful views, good breakfast and some very large balconies. Particularly practical here: a car park in front of the villa! And that is worth its weight in gold considering the lack of parking in Berat! Or you can try to find one of the small hostels in Mengalem via booking.com, where you can sleep in a historic setting and enjoy a beautiful night-time view over the old tiled roofs.
For dinner, you should try to get a table at Lili's – a very special experience. A tiny rustic dining room, a lively Lili and delicious Albanian homemade food!
